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Total number of records: 3541
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Papers relating to the origin, administration and marketing of the University of Leeds International Textile Archive (ULITA)
1995 - 2019
BOX 1: ULITA committee meetings 2001-2019; Museum Accreditation certificate; The Clothworkers’ Documentation and Conservation Project ULITA (final report 2010); Letters of support for creatin...
notes and samples book
Pesel, Louisa F (1947)
before 1920
A blue binder with cord ties, and addressed Oak House, Bradford, containing numbered pages of manuscript notes, black and white photographs and attached embroidery samples. In Ink, red pencil and silk...
silk sample scroll
late 19th Century
A narrow silk on paper scroll or banner, with blank panels to attach and display silk fragments. When rolled the outer part of the scroll is shown as a brightly coloured silk brocade with flower moti...
yi pi or chair cover
19th Century
Two lions playing with balls are embroidered on red silk satin. Between the lions a square framed band of metallic weft faced black satin with a cloud pattern forms the seating area. The gold colour...
woven sample
1880-1914
Double weave textile sample with tapestry style design of flowers and foliage in greens, pinks, blue, yellow and black. This is a copy of historic Italian or French textile.
Akwuete cloth
c.1964-1965
This is a handwoven Akwuete cloth, woven by a woman on a vertical loom. (Akwuete is a town in eastern Igboland, southeastern Nigeria.) The cloth consists of two broad panels stitched together, with fr...
Madagascar fibre sample
mid 20th Century
A sample of Madagascar fibre. Produced from the leaf sheathes of a palm native to Madagascar (usually Dypsis fibrosa, sometimes other Dypsis species). The donor stated that brushmaking was carried...
Marking Stitch, 2nd Series
DMC Group (1746-)
mid 20th Century
A booklet with embroidery stitch patterns. Patterns include alphabets, borders, geometrical patterns and children engaged in seasonal activities, covering playing in snow, water, sand, ice skating, sk...
Crochet Notions by Penelope
Wm. Briggs & Co. Ltd.
mid 20th Century
A booklet with crochet projects, including the star motif, spider's web, well handled gloves, dressing set, dainty garlands, motif luncheon set, petal collar, two choux, blue birds and four lace edgin...
weave sample
Barker, Mary (1907-1999)
early 20th-mid 20th Century
A long sample of commercial weaving in peach, with a repeat stylised flower motif in an art deco style. The warp is in purple and green, the weft includes cream. Made by Mary Barker MBE, the first f...
geometric weave sample
Barker, Mary (1907-1999)
early 20th-mid 20th Century
A sample of commercial weaving in two colourways of mauve and pale yellow, with a repeat stylised design of butterflies within geometric cartouches in an art deco style. The warp is in tan. Made by ...
colourway sample
Barker, Mary (1907-1999)
early 20th-mid 20th Century
A woven sample with two different colourways, with burgundy warp and a mix of yellow and blue weft, with a different weft colour dominant in each colourway. The geometric repeated design appears to b...
weave sample with crane design
Barker, Mary (1907-1999)
early 20th-mid 20th Century
A sample of commercial weaving associated with the pointpaper design 2017.22.4, showing stylised cranes with a Japanese / art nouveau influence. This weave is in royal blue and cream over a green war...
Anaphe silk combings
late 19th-mid 20th Century
Card box with glass cover, containing samples of Anaphe wild silk combings. Anaphe is raw silk. This genus of silkworm, which produces this variety of silk, is found especially in Uganda and other par...
stencil
late 19th-mid 20th Century
This is one of a set of four stencils (ITC 2012.115.1-4) all of which add different detail to create a complex, possibly multicoloured, design. The design on the stencils includes dragons amongst clo...
sleeve panel
late 19th-mid 20th Century
A long pale green panel with repeats of embroidered motifs, predominantly in blue, black, pink and green. The design includes butterflies, flowers, bats and auspicious symbols, including the coin mot...
one of a pair of drawstring purses
mid 19th-mid 20th Century
One of a pair of oval drawstring purses with woven 'dragon robe' silk with red ties decorated with bound sections of blue threads. This one has burgundy cords with a decorated ceramic bead. The pai...
stencil
early 19th-mid 20th Century
A katagami stencil, used in resist dyeing of fabric, possibly depicts plum blossom and stylised pine bark motifs (matsukawa bishi). Pine is symbollic of longevity and plum of renewal. Both plants ar...
Aso-Oke outfit: head tie
c.1976-1984
This is a large, predominantly blue handwoven Aso-Oke head tie, woven in Ilorin, northern Yorubaland. Aso-Oke is a highly prized form of Yoruba handwoven cloth. This cloth is made up of six narrow st...
warp ikat kain sarung
late 20th Century
A red and black kain made up of three panels, all including warp ikat elements. There are also narrow blue, yellow and red stripes running through the material.
straw hat
late 20th Century
A straw pillbox hat [songkok?], intended for daily wear by Muslim men. It is light brown with dark brown bands and triangular/arrow patterning in gold plastic metallic thread. There is a wooden band i...
one of pair of pendants
20th Century
One of a pair of long embroidered symmetrical pendant hangings depicting a butterfly, lotus flower, shell and fishes. In bright colours including blue, green and pink, this is made up of seven indivi...
shawl fragment
mid - late 18th Century
A fragment consisting of part of the border of a red shawl. The fabric is twill woven. The design consists of a repeating series of large buta motifs. The predominant colours are reds but there are...
crepe fragment
1840-1920
A piece of crepe [chirimen] with a multicoloured printed design of flowers, snow flakes, linked gem patterning [shippo tsunagi] and imitation tie dye patterning of small circles. Chirimen is woven u...
Looms 15 [order book]
David Sowden and Sons (1856-1856)
1888-1889
A hardback with dark brown covers and black spine, with gold text on spine. Contains printed forms with handwritten inscriptions detailing orders for looms. Listed by date with an index of companies...
Safavid prayer rug design
Churchill, Sidney John Alexander (1862-1921)
16th-19th Century
Two pieces of cloth-backed squared paper with a design or cartoon for a silk prayer rug. The design depicts a mihrab shape decorated with arabesques and lotus, peony, chrysanthemum and magnolia flowe...
weave sample
Barker, Mary (1907-1999)
1926-1999
A small weave sample in white, light blue and burgundy, with a striped design moving diagonally across the centre of the piece and wider striped borders. The centre is plain weave and the borders have...
Winchester Designs Series 2 No.X.
Pesel, Louisa F (1947)
1932-1940
A drawn pointpaper design produced for the Broiderers of Winchester Cathedral by Louisa Pesel, referenced as series 2, number 10. The design for needlepoint is a symmetrical organic design, possibly ...
![Vegetable Fibres: Flax [exhibit card]](https://digital.library.leeds.ac.uk/30011/1.hashomepageThumbnailVersion/669848_001.JPG)
Vegetable Fibres: Flax [exhibit card]
University of Leeds (1904-); Linen Industry Research Association
1936
Cream museum exhibit card from the Department of Colour Chemistry, displaying 12 annotated photomicrographs of lengths and cross sections of flax as used in textiles. Top row: Six images of lengths s...
Vogue Embroidery Book, No 1
The Conde Nast Publications Ltd.
1948
A magazine focussing on embroidery designs with theme of femininity, accomplishment, adornment, personal touches. Gives brief history of embroidery. The booklet gives various design suggestions, howe...
printed fabric
1950-1962
Crepe fabric printed with zoo animal images on a pale green background. Design includes panda, zebra, kangaroo, koala and possum. Pieces of the fabric were given out as part of the University's Text...
printed upholstery fabric
1950-1965
Duplex print furnishing crepe fabric in white, black, red, green, yellow and brown and mint green. Design is of large flowers and sedges against block colour background similar to a wall, with balcon...
Cross Stitch New Designs, 3rd Series
DMC Group (1746-)
1950-1970
A booklet with examples of cross stitch patterns. Patterns are based on flora and fauna, for example fish swimming in a pond, bird by a nest or flower borders. The pattern designs include children in ...
Coronation print
Mitzi Cunliffe
1952-1953
A length of printed satin cotton designed for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, depicting a royal lion and unicorn crest with crown and ER monogram in the central cartouche. A black conti...
Lieut. Harry Dent Crompton Prize Fund Scheme, Design and Structure of Woven Fabrics
1953-1954
Hardback with black covers and white spine. White text on cover and spine. Reference Collection no. 27. Contains woven dress and furnishing fabric samples. Most are polychrome and patterned with g...
Aniocha cloth
1966-1967
An Aniocha cloth toga, part of an outfit with a matching wrapper (ITC 2014.107.2), made in Ogwashi Uku in the Western Igbo area of Nigeria. The basic weave is in white with narrow red warp stripes. Re...
ICI Fibres Limited Information Note No. X25. Double Jersey Fabrics in Crimplene with Terylene/Wool
Imperial Chemical Industries
1969
A publication by ICI Fibres Limited outlining the properties of double-jersey fabrics containing crimplene for the production of women's wear with wool. Discription of properties for flat jacquard str...
The migration of stitches and the practice of stitch as movement. Illustrative samples
Morrell, Professor Anne B
2007
11 Embroidery samples used as photographic illustrations in a publication.
sampler
Horsfall, Hannah
19th Century
A faded symmetrical sampler in green, red (faded) and cream, with a central feature of a religious poem and the name Hannah Horsfall in a zigzag border. Other features include a central lion and unic...
Cross-stitch and filet, odd designs [portfolio]
Pesel, Louisa F (1947)
c. 1923
A loose A4 portfolio entitled "Cross-stitch & Filet, odd designs", containing approximately 44 designs and stitching illustrations, many annotated on plain, checked and tracing paper, in pencil, inks ...
upper panel of door curtain
early 19th century
This item is composed of several different fabrics; the decoration on each has been achieved by a different technique. The top panel is rectangular and consists of a white silk satin ground embroider...
sampler
19th Century
Sampler with embroidered cross stitch of a grand house design in red (suggestive of bricks) enclosed in a red and green cross stitch repeat border. Above the house design are grey cross stitch arcs, p...
woven sample
1880-1914
Double weave textile sample with design of red daisies on a green/blue background.
sampler
Pesel, Louisa F (1947)
1870-1947
Oblong piece of canvas, edged on three sides with cream cotton tape. Running stitches mark out the positioning of the design. One corner has a geometric wool embroidered border design, worked in tent ...
box of silk cocoons
late 19th-mid 20th Century
Card box with glass cover, containing samples of silk cocoons, labelled as 'Antherea melita'. This may refer to Antheraea mylitta. The silkworm Antheraea mylitta is one of the producers of wild silk. ...
![Sirens [hanging]](https://digital.library.leeds.ac.uk/31820/1.hashomepageThumbnailVersion/667150_001.JPG)
Sirens [hanging]
Barker, Mary (1907-1999)
late 20th Century
A handwoven hanging entitled 'Sirens' depicting four female heads in blues and turquoises, with red lips and loose wool and clear plastic strip hair. The facial features are stylised. There are eigh...
![The Brunnschweiler Collection [English Wax advertising pamphlet]](https://digital.library.leeds.ac.uk/31821/1.hashomepageThumbnailVersion/667159_001.JPG)
The Brunnschweiler Collection [English Wax advertising pamphlet]
ABC Company
late 20th Century
An A4 coloured stapled English Wax advertising pamphlet with four pages, showing annotated photographs of discharge printed textiles and models wearing the designs, along with information and business...
cap
1250-1517
A round cap composed of five separate layers decoratively stitched. The cap is quilted with similar cut and construction of the internal and external fabric layers. The quilting (back stitch) is sup...
Catalogue of Parts for the Hollingworth and Knowles Patent Open Shed High Speed Fancy Loom
Hutchinson, Hollingworth & Co. Ltd.
1898
Hardback book with multicoloured covers and green spine. Black text and engraving on cover. Contains 17 labelled plates showing components of the Hollingworth and Knowles open shed high speed fancy ...
Bilbille & Co Printed Silks February 1964 no.3
Bilbille & Co
1964
Softback with cream coloured covers, orange labels on cover. Contains woven fabric samples (twill, taffeta) with printed patterning including flower heads, floral sprigs, abstract organic designs, pa...
warp ikat shoulder wrap
c. 1995
A warp ikat shoulder wrap in browns, in a stripe and patola design. There is a central patterned striped panel between smaller stripes of dots, diamonds and triangles.
mandarin square or rank badge
19th century
The central motif on this mandarin square, or rank badge, is the golden pheasant, which was a symbol used by a second rank civil official. The surrounding motifs include bats and Buddhist precious th...
Wooden block and cap
late 19th-mid 20th Century
Hand carved wooden block and cup, possibly used to create repeating pattern in fabric dying.
Boz (woman’s shawl)
late 20th Century
A green and yellow cotton shawl called a boz. This woman’s shawl is of Western shape, and not perceived to be an indigenous Uzbek textile. It is worn on the shoulders. It is dyed with a natural dy...
shawl
1830-1850
The phala (large patterned border at each end of the shawl) has a total of eight densely patterned right-hand facing botehs, separated into compartments by a series of vertical lines between symmetric...
![Hand Woven Silk Fabrics [exhibit card]](https://digital.library.leeds.ac.uk/31859/1.hashomepageThumbnailVersion/669782_001.JPG)
Hand Woven Silk Fabrics [exhibit card]
University of Leeds (1904-); Warner & Sons
1932
Cream museum exhibit card from the Department of Colour Chemistry, displaying 9 annotated samples of dyed silk textiles in different types of weave. Some samples glued to apertures, some attached wit...
Cotons Été 1950 Envoi C
Société des Nouveautés Textiles
1950
Softback with red covers. Black text on cover. Contains garment fabric samples. Mostly geometric woven patterning in 1-6 colours includes stripes (some with geometric or floral dobbies), plaid, dot...
Design
Marchini, Guido (1929-2008)
1950-2008
Painted stylised organic design with a pattern of blue and green flowers in a horizontal stripe layout
Bida cloth
c.1978-1982
This is a light grey handwoven Bida cloth, woven by a Nupe woman on a vertical loom. (Bida is the capital of the Nupe kingdom in the Nigerian Middle Belt.) It is made up of two broad panels stitched t...